Small Animal Hospital

Small Animal Hospital

In our newly built centre we provide all the services you can expect for a state of the art animal hospital.

From the first contact you know you are dealing with a very professionally run organization. The girls at reception ask for personal details and anything that has to do with the history of your pet. All these details are put into a fully integrated computer system. All medical records are kept up to date.
Your visit will most often start in one of the two examination rooms.
There is a fully equipped surgical theatre. The best equipment and medicine will be used to achieve save and high standard surgical procedures.
In the case of hospitalization your pet will be staying in our recovery/hospital room. We are keeping a permanent watch at your animal and the room is made to achieve comfortable stay for him or her.

Facilties and services;

o Full surgery with gas anesthesia and permanent computer monitoring

o Intensive care

o Digital x-ray

o Ultrasound

o In house laboratory (you can wait for the result)

o Greyhound and sport medicine

o Dentistry

o (obedience) training

o Physiotherapist

o The center offers the facility of grooming as well. While your animal is being groomed it is also possible to do other examinations or treatments of your dog or cat (vaccinations, ear cleaning, teeth cleaning, x-rays etc).

Jack, Mike and Snoopy at Kenmare Pier

Fractured jaw with plate

Kittens looking for a home

General health examination

It is vitally important for your pet’s health that they have regular checkups. This is normally done at the time of their annual vaccination booster.
At this check the vet will examine your pet’s eyes, ears, nose and mouth, for any problems.
The vet will also listen to the heart, and lungs.
The abdomen will also be palpated checking for normal size and location of liver, spleen, kidneys, bladder, intestines and prostate.
The lymph glands and skin are also checked for any problems.
Finally the musculoskeletal system is checked for any problems with the joints, muscles or bones.
This allows problems to be picked up and treated early. The annual check is a good opportunity for you to discuss any concerns you may have about your pet’s health. The veterinarian can also let you know measures to help prevent your pet developing health problems.

Surgery

Welcome to a behind-the-scenes look at what happens in preparation for Surgery at our Hospital. We thought that it was important to explain what we do before and after a surgical procedure to ensure operations are as safe as possible.
	Preparation of surgical equipment: The day before a surgery is scheduled, the necessary instruments, together with swabs and drapes, are gathered into a surgical pack. After the prepared pack is sealed, it is steam sterilised in the Hospital's autoclave, before being allowed to cool and dry overnight. A similar procedure is followed for the surgeon's surgical gown and hand towel.
Pre-anaesthetic examination and anaesthetic induction Having fasted from 8pm on the night before their admission, the patient arrives on the morning of the operation between 9:00 am and 9:30 am. After being weighed and admitted to Hospital, each animal is given a thorough pre-anaesthetic examination. For those patients whose owners have elected to do pre-anaesthetic blood testing, a small amount of blood is collected and the results of the ensuing tests are then used to modify the anaesthetic regime if needed.
After being given a premedicant (which includes a pain-relieving drug), and allowing time for the medication to work, the patient has a small amount of hair clipped from their forearm. The injections site is then prepared and an anaesthetic agent is injected into the vein.
After the patient is asleep, an endotracheal tube is passed down into his or her wind pipe. The animal is connected via this tube to a gaseous anaesthetic machine which delivers anaesthetic gas, oxygen and nitrous oxide (a pain-relieving gas which some people know as 'laughing gas'). Monitoring equipment is connected to the patient, and a detailed anaesthetic record kept throughout the surgical procedure.
	Preparation of the surgeon: The surgeon prepares for surgery while the patient is being anaesthetised. After donning a surgical cap and mask, the surgeon scrubs his or her hands and forearms in an antiseptic solution. This minimises bacterial contamination.
One of the theatre nurses then opens the pre-sterilised gown and glove packs. The surgeon dries his hands, puts on the gown and gloves, then heads into the theatre to organise the sterilised instruments and drapes to be used for the procedure.
Preparation of the patient: After being anaesthetised, the patient has a section of the hair over the operating site clipped away. All loose hair is then removed by vacuuming the area. They are then taken into the theatre and reconnected to another anaesthetic machine and set of monitoring equipment.
	Subsequent to this, the exposed skin is prepared using a series of three disinfectant solutions. Once this is done, the animal is ready for the surgeon to drape the surgical site and begin the procedure.
After surgery: The anaesthetic gases are turned off after the surgery is completed. To aid their recovery from the anaesthetic, the patient is allowed to breath pure oxygen for about 5 minutes before breathing room air. As the animal starts to wake from the anaesthetic, the endotracheal tube is removed, and the patient is settled into one of the Hospital cages in the treatment room.
Each cage has a soft fluffy mat on the cage floor to ensure that the patient is comfortable, and towels and heating pads are used to provide warmth after the surgery. During the initial stages of recovery, one of the nurses remains with the animal to ensure their safety.
Although the premedicant that each animal receives contains pain relief, we also give additional medication to control discomfort after the surgery if it is needed. Once the patient has recovered sufficiently, and after a post-surgery examination, the animal is discharged from hospital. On release of the animal from hospital, we discuss home-care of their pet with the owners and schedule any necessary follow-up appointments. These include examining the wound in 5 days to ensure healing, and having sutures removed 10-14 days after the surgery if dissolving suture material has not been used.

Radiology

Radiography (X-rays) and ultrasound have the ability to "look through" tissues. These make great diagnostic aids for many parts of the body, and often a definitive diagnosis is only possible when using one of these imaging techniques.
	X-rays give us a 2-dimensional view of a specific part of an animal's body, and are particularly good for imaging bones, outlines of soft tissue structures, and air-filled spaces (such as lungs).
We would routinely take X-rays of an animal with chest and abdominal problems, and in certain lamenesses to confirm or rule out fractures and bone malalignments. Sometimes there may not be a fracture as such, but by taking X-rays, we can see that bones may be out of position due to ligament injuries.
Ultrasonography: Ultrasound has advantages and disadvantages over X-rays depending on the situation. An ultrasound machine can produce cross-sectional pictures of organs (X-rays would only show the outline of the organ). This is particularly useful for visualising the inside of the urinary bladder, gall bladder, blood vessels, heart, liver, kidneys and the list goes on. Ultrasound can also be used in "real time" - that is, we can view the organs at that exact time. With this, we can watch the heart expand and contract, look at movement of the gastrointestinal tract and much more.

Dental care

What is involved in a professional dental clean? A veterinary patient needs to be anaesthetised to conduct a proper dental procedure. This also minimised the stress on your pet. In older animals we recommend a pre-anaesthetic blood profile before any anaesthetic, including those required for dental procedures.
After anaesthetic induction, a thorough dental examination is carried out. This involves charting the teeth present and assessing their condition, including the degree of tartar, gingivitis (gum inflammation) and any pockets in the gums around the teeth.
	After the teeth are examined, a treatment protocol is designed and commenced. If extractions are required a nerve block is performed to help reduce
anaesthetic requirements and post operative pain, and an antibiotic injection is given.
Then we begin with removing tartar above the gum line using a special ultrasonic scaler. After the visible surface of the teeth is clean, tartar is scraped out of gum pockets by hand.
	The teeth are then polished using a dental polisher and specialised fine grade paste. Finally the mouth is flushed with antibacterial solution. The dental procedure ends here if dental disease is not
severe, however, if extractions are necessary due to advanced periodontal disease, these would then be performed.
When extracting teeth, the incisors are often removed first because they are small, having only one root. However, the canine and larger teeth (premolars and molars) are more complex to remove. They usually require the gum to be elevated from the bone around the tooth first. The bone is then removed by burring with a dental air drill to free the tooth.
It is often necessary to cut teeth into root segments using this air drill to allow complete removal of the tooth. The remaining bone is smoothed using another burr and the gums sutured closed over the socket. When all the dental work is done, the animal is given an antibiotic injection, the anaesthetic gas is turned off, and your pet is allowed to wake up.
	Following a professional dental clean, a home care programme is designed for you depending on the severity of your pet's dental disease. This may involve regular tooth brushing, feeding raw meaty bones and/or a special diet. One of our staff will discuss this
with you and answer any questions you might have when you come to collect your pet. We perform a progress examination to monitor gum healing 7 days after surgery for any animal that has had extractions. We also recommend all pets be examined 6 months after dental cleaning to determine the effectiveness of your home dental care.
Are there any alternatives to tooth removal? Newer techniques now allow us to preserve teeth at times rather than remove them. This may involve root canal work or specialised fillings for eroded teeth. Tooth capping can also be performed, but unfortunately man has not yet found materials strong enough to withstand the forces of nature, thus crowns are prone to breaking if bones or sticks are chewed. These complex dental techniques would be conducted by a specialised veterinary dentist.

Annual health check and vaccination

We then examine the...

• nose
• oral cavity, including teeth and gums
• eyes
• ears
• heart and lungs
• abdomen
• musculoskeletal system
• skin
• lymph nodes
• and measure body temperature, pulse rate and quality, heart rate, respiratory rate and weight

We discuss any abnormal findings from the full physical examination with you, and suggest further diagnostic or treatment options as needed. If all is well, then your pet's vaccination will be administered.

During the annual health check consultation, we also discuss your pet's internal and external parasite control - fleas, ticks and the gastrointestinal worms - and heartworm prevention.

If your pet is more mature in years, we may also suggest a routine blood screen to check their internal organ function.

Vaccination of your Dog

Dogs should be vaccinated against all of the serious but preventable viral diseases that are present in south eastern Australia - Parvovirus, Distemper, Infectious Hepatitis, and Parainfluenza (the viral cause of Kennel Cough).

Disease	Clinical signs	Characteristics of disease
Canine Distemper	Signs vary, but may include fever, diarrhoea, vomiting, depression, muscle tremors and paralysis.	Dogs of any age can be affected by this virus, with young puppies at greatest risk.	Vaccination recommended
Infectious Hepatitis	Signs include fever, depression, abdominal pain, vomiting and diarrhoea. Severe cases are rapidly fatal.	Dogs of any age can be affected, but most severe cases occur in dogs less than two years of age.	Vaccination recommended
Canine Parvovirus	Signs include sudden death in young pups, bloody diarrhoea, abdominal pain and uncontrollable vomiting.	Most severe in the very young and very old but dogs of all ages may be affected.	Vaccination recommended
Kennel Cough	Hacking cough. Not usually fatal, but can be severe and prolonged.	Dogs of any age can be affected.	Vaccination recommended

The recommended vaccination schedule for puppies starts at 6-8 weeks of age. This first vaccination is then boosted at 12 weeks of age. In some cases in it wise the booster a third time. Because the immunity gained from these initial vaccinations weakens over time, we recommend annual booster vaccinations to provide the best protection throughout the life of your dog.

After receiving a vaccination, your pet may appear a little "off-colour" for a day or so. Occasionally, vaccine reactions can occur. Please contact us immediately if you are concerned about your dog after vaccination.

If you are not sure about your dog's current vaccination status or would like to discuss vaccination further with one of our staff, please visit us or give our hospital a call.

Vaccination of your Cat

At Kenmare Veterinary Hospital, we recommend that cats are vaccinated against Feline Enteritis and the two viruses which cause Feline Respiratory.

We also have a vaccine against Feline Leukaemia Virus, Feline Immunodeficiency Virus and Chlamydia, however please discuss with us the suitability of this additional vaccination for your cat.

Disease	Clinical Signs	Characteristics of disease	Prevention
Feline Enteritis	May cause vomiting and diarrhoea (sometimes with blood), depression, loss of appetite, and intense abdominal pain. Can also cause birth defects and abortion.	Highly contagious and has high death rate, especially cats under 1 year. Cats that recover continue to carry and spread the virus.	Vaccination recommended
Feline Respiratory Disease	Also known as "Cat 'Flu". Causes sneezing, coughing, discharge from the eyes and nose, decreased appetite, and ulcers about the mouth and tongue.	Highly contagious, but death rate is low except in very young kittens. The disease may be quite distressing for both cat and owner. Cats that recover continue to carry and spread the virus.	Vaccination recommended
Feline Chlamydia	Causes a severe persistent conjunctivitis in up to 30% of cats. Kittens are more severely affected by Chlamydia following exposure to "Cat Flu". NB: This disease is NOT transmissible to humans.	Highly contagious, but non-fatal. Chlamydial organisms may also be shed for many months after the initial infection.	Vaccination available
Feline Leukaemia	Loss of appetite, weight loss, vomiting and diarrhoea. Associated with reproductive problems, leukaemia and tumours.	Any age affected. Approximately one third of cats that recover continue to carry and spread the virus.	Vaccination available
Feline Immuno- deficiency Virus	Increased susceptibility to other diseases, much like human AIDS. NB: This disease is NOT transmissible to humans.	Any age affected. More prevalent in undesexed male cats.	Vaccination available

The recommended vaccination schedule for kittens starts at 6-8 weeks of age. This first vaccination is then boosted at 12 weeks of age and 16 weeks of age ("Flu" vaccine). Because the immunity gained from these initial vaccinations weakens over time, we recommend annual booster vaccinations to provide the best protection throughout the life of your cat.

After receiving a vaccination, your pet may appear a little "off-colour" for a day or so. Occasionally, vaccine reactions can occur. Please contact us immediately if you are concerned about your cat after vaccination.

If you are not sure about your cat's current vaccination status or would like to discuss vaccination further with one of our staff, please visit us or give our hospital a call.

Microchipping There are very few things that are more distressing than losing a pet. The current laws require (cats)and dogs to have some form of identification. However if your pet slips their collar and tag, and these were their only form of identification, finding them again may be difficult. Thus we recommend that your pet should be microchipped.
	Microchipping is a permanent, safe and affordable way of ensuring that your pets can find their way home if they ever become lost, escape or (heaven forbid!) are stolen.
The chips are about the size of a small grain of rice and are implanted beneath the skin. Each chip contains a unique number that is linked to the owner's contact details on a nationally integrated registry, to which only authorised people have access. When a lost animal is found, it is a routine procedure to check to see if a microchip is present, and if so, the chip number is used to access the client's details so the animal can be reunited with their owner.
Microchipping can be done at any time, though most people elect to have it done while their pet is in hospital for another procedure such as desexing. If you would like the procedure performed, please tell one of our reception staff when you arrive.

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Having Your Pet Desexed Castrating Your Pet In this operation, which is performed under general anaesthetic, both testicles are removed, thus removing the source of sperm and the male sex hormone (testosterone).
Why should I consider castrating my dog? There are many advantages: Usually the dog becomes more placid The dog is less likely to wander and chase bitches on heat Many councils charge more for entire (i.e. undesexed) animals Desexing prevents tumours of the testicles Desexing reduces the incidences of problems occurring in the prostate gland, perineal hernias, and hormone-related tumours
Why should I consider castrating my cat? There are many advantages:
	A male cat is dominated by his sex drive, so he will wander in search of female cats who are in season When a male cat wanders, he invariably crosses other cats' territory which can often lead to vicious fighting, nasty fight wounds, and abcesses A female cat is capable of being served by more than one male during her season, which results in many toms searching and fighting for the one female A male cat will mark his territory by urinating (spraying). Castration will decrease the frequency of this behaviour A desexed cat (male or female) will not produce unwanted kittens Minimising fighting also reduces the spread of Feline Immunodeficiency Virus Male cats often become more homely after castration because they are not as motivated to wander
Will castration change my pets's nature? There is no great character change, although the dog may be quieter.
Will it cure my dog of aggression etc.? Maybe. It depends on the dog and the nature of his aggression. If it is due to hormone-related dominance, the chances are good that he will be less aggressive after castration. If he is aggressive while "guarding" his territory then he will usually keep doing so. (Talk to one of our vets if you have this sort of problem.)NB: The dog's libido may remain the same for up to two months after the operation. The change is not immediate and he may still want to wander and mount bitches at first.
At what age should my pet be castrated? We recommend that the desexing operation takes place at about 6 months of age. However, there is no problem with performing the operation on older pets. We prefer not to perform castrations at earlier ages because males reach sexual maturity when they are about six months old. By this time, both testicles have usually descended, and thus the surgery becomes more straightforward. How long after the operation is the patient himself again? It does not take long - usually after two days he is back to normal. What precautions do I take after surgery? Do not allow your dog to jump or exercise vigorously until the stitches are removed or your veterinarian says that it is OK. There should be no games or forced exercise for the first week. Castration is unlikely to cause your pet to become overweight. However, sensible feeding and adequate exercise are important to maintain your desexed dog in top shape!!
Spaying Your Pet What is meant by "spaying"? Spaying, or desexing, is the term applied to the operation in which the ovaries and uterus are removed from the female . The object of spaying is to stop the pet from coming on heat and reproducing.
Should your pet be spayed? There are four main advantages in having your pet desexed: It avoids the pet coming into heat twice a year, with the accompanying messy discharges and invasion by all the neighbourhood males. Desexing prevents unwanted pups and kittens - population control in our pets is a very real and serious problem Spaying greatly reduces the likelihood of mammary cancer in dogs(if the bitch is desexed before her first cycle)
Should my pet have a litter before being desexed? No. Well-meaning people may tell you that your pet should have a litter or at least a heat period before she is desexed. There is no clinical evidence to support the view that this enhances her "female" characteristics.
At what age should she be desexed? The female will come into heat anytime from 6 months of age onwards. We recommend that the desexing operation take place at 6 months of age regardless of the breed.
How long after the operation before the patient is herself again? It does not take long. After 3 days she is usually back to normal.
What precautions should I take after surgery? Do not allow your pet to jump or exercise vigorously until the stitches are removed. There should be no games or forced exercise for the first week.
Desexing is unlikely to cause your pet to become overweight. However, sensible feeding and adequate exercise are important to maintain your desexed pet in top shape!

Grooming Your Pet
Regular brushing of the coat is important in all breeds of dog and most cats.  It not only removes shed hair from the coat but also stimulates the circulation of the skin.  It is also a great oppertunity to check your pets skin for fleas, scale or crusts and deal with them early on.  The best tools to use depend on your pets coat and there are a large variety of tools available.  It is best to consult a groomer or your vet as to which are the most suitable tools for your pet.  The frequency with which you need to brush your pet also varies depending on coat and season.
	Another vital part of grooming your pet is regular ear checks (usually weekly) and cleaning out any wax or fluid that has built up.  If you find that the ears are red, irritated or smelly, or there is fluid or excessive wax present it is best to consult your veterinarian for appropriate treatment. If the ear looks normal gently wipe it with cotton wool moistened with and ear cleaning solution.  You may also need to put a few drops of the solution into the ear canal and the gently massage the ear before wiping it with dry cotton wool.  Cotton buds should never be used in the ear canal as they can damage the canal if your pet moves suddenly.
While we are checking the head don't forget to check your pets teeth.  Look for bad breath to indicate infection, tartar or plaque built up on teeth or inflammation of the gums.  To keep your pets teeth clean you can provide dental chews and raw meaty bones, or you can brush their teeth regularly.  There are also special dental diets and water additives to assist with this.
	The final part of grooming your pet is to make sure the nails are the correct length, that their feet are free from seeds and mats and there is no evidence of infection between the toes and pads.  Trimming your pets nails may be necessary if dogs do not exercise on hard surfaces and in cats that do not use scratching posts or surfaces.  There are a variety of nail clippers available depending on the size of the nail and personal preferance. It is important not to trim nails to short.  The quick in each nail is highly vascular and sensitive and trimming the nail to short will result in pain and bleeding.  Ask your veterinarian or groomer for guidance as to length.
Bathing your Dog
The first important step is choosing the right shampoo. Animals skin is less acidic than human skin and hair growth is quite different. Therefore human shampoos and detergents are not appropriate to use. It is best to choose an animal specific, soap free and pH balanced shampoo such as Virbac allergroom or Dermcare Natural Shampoo. For pets with itchy skin choosing Allergroom Oatmeal or Virbac Episooth range will settle the skin with the oatmeal incorporated in it to sooth the skin. If your pet suffers from a skin condition it is best to get your vet to prescribe a specific medicated shampoo.
The next question is how often to bath your pet. If there is no specific problem with your dogs skin and the coat is not particularly dirty or smelly it is best to bath no more than once a fortnight. Dogs with skin conditions may need more frequent bathing. If your pet has a particularly strong odour it may be that there is an underlying skin condition. If the smell is mostly around the head then it could be that your dog has dental or ear problems. If the odour is strongest near the back, then there may be a problem with the anal glands. In any case if you suspect your pet is suffering from an underlying problem it may be best to consult your vet.
Before you start to wash your dog examine the skin and coat for any signs of dry skin, hair loss, redness or itchiness. Also check the area near the top of the tail and back of the neck for signs of fleas. Also check your pet’s feet especially between the toes and the pads for matted hair or sore skin. Now gently comb or brush your pet’s coat to remove mats and loose hair. Carefully clip any mats that can not be brushed out.
Shampooing your dog: 1. Choose a warm comfortable environment and restrain your pet by the collar. 2. Use lukewarm water to thoroughly wet the skin surface. Make sure not to forget areas under the neck, the stomach, the legs and feet. To achieve thorough wetting it may be best to use a shower attachment to your tap or hose.		Thank you to Buddy's family for the use of this photo
3. You can use a sponge to wet the skin around the face and difficult  to  reach   areas.
		1. Now apply shampoo to several points over the body. 2. Gently massage the shampoo into the coat and skin, all over the dog, until sufficient shampoo is used to produce a good lather (be sure to read shampoo label instructions). Take care around the face area to avoid the eyes, nose, mouth and ears. 3. Leave the shampoo on the dog for 5-10 minutes (depending on label instructions), this gives the active ingredients in the shampoo time to start working on the skin. The longer you allow the shampoo to remain on the skin the better the results you will see. During the waiting time you can occupy your dog by doing some basic training, playing or feeding.
1. Thoroughly rinse all shampoo from the skin using lukewarm water. Again a shower hose with strong jets make this job much easier. 2. Repeat shampooing as directed by instructions or vet advice. 3. If your dog has dry skin or coat or a long coat use a conditioner such as Aloveen Oatmeal Conditioner or Virbac Episooth Rinse and Conditioner. Massage the conditioner into the skin and coat all over the dog as per instructions and the rinse lightly.
		1. Thoroughly dry your dog with a hand towel. If your dog has a long or thick coat sometimes it is best to use a hair dryer on a cool and low setting. 2. After drying gently brush your dogs coat.
We would like to thank Virbac for the use of their illustrations and information